Glycolic Acid FAQs

What is glycolic acid?

Glycolic acid is one of several alpha hydroxy acids (AHA’s) that are found in certain plants and fruits. A sugar cane derivative, glycolic acid is the most commonly found AHA in cosmetic and skin care products due to its small size and ease of penetration.

What does glycolic acid do?

Glycolic acid works as an exfoliant, removing dead skin cells that have accumulated on the surface of the skin. The build-up of these dead cells accentuates fine lines and pores, dulls the appearance of the skin and produces a rougher skin texture.

How does glycolic acid work?

Glycolic acid loosens the glue-like substance that holds layers of skin cells together. With use of a glycolic, the “glue” becomes loosened and thickened dead skin is sloughed away, leaving newer skin cells with a smoother texture and healthier appearance on the surface. Glycolics, such as the popular Glytone line, have also proven to be excellent for unclogging pores which decreases the tendency for acne to appear.

I have never used a glycolic product before. What can I expect?

When first beginning a glycolic treatment or regimen there are a few things for which you should be prepared. You should feel a tingling sensation when applying a glycolic acid. After a few days of use you may notice slight redness or irritation of the skin as well as light to moderate flaking. Generally irritation will taper off within 2 to 3 weeks as your skin becomes accustomed to the product.

When starting out with a glycolic product it is best to use around a 10% glycolic content, such as those available from NeoStrata, until your skin acclimates then you can gradually increase the percentage you are using.

What is the best glycolic product to use?

Because each person’s skin is unique, it will react differently to products than another person’s skin. Thus, it is difficult to say one product is better than another. However, it is important to keep in mind the concentration of glycolic acid in a product as well as the pH of the product. The most effective glycolic products consist of 8% to 25% glycolic acid and have a pH between 2.5 and 4.5. The higher the amount of glycolic acid, the higher the pH can be.

Does glycolic acid thin the skin?

No. It loosens the glue holding dead skin cells together on the surface of the skin; it does not have any thinning or dissolving effect on the actual skin cells.

Should I avoid using any other products while using glycolic acids?

Glycolics actually work well in conjunction with other types of products such as Retin-A, Retinol, Vitamin C, bleaching agents and topical acne treatments. With prescription-strength products, it is recommended that you alternate usage of the glycolic and the prescription product to avoid possible irritation.

Will I flake or peel when I start a glycolic regimen?

Many people experience some form of flaking during their treatment. Skin type has a lot to do with how much exfoliation you will experience. Glycolic acid will not cause more drying or dehydration for those with dry skin types; if you do have dry skin, you will tend to flake more than oily skin types because you have more dead skin cells that are being sloughed off. Glycolic acid tends to be very hydrating and therefore an excellent option for dry skin types who wish to resurface their skin.

If you feel glycolic acid is too harsh for your skin, a beta hydroxy acid regimen (products containing Salicylic Acid) may be the most beneficial for you. How often should I use glycolic products for the best results?

A typical daily regimen should go something like this:

AM PM

Cleanse Cleanse

Tone Tone

AM Treatment Products PM Treatment Products

Moisturizer Moisturizer

Sunscreen

If you don’t have time to follow a twice daily regimen, follow your complete regimen at night in lieu of a day regimen. Skin repairs itself more at night, making treatment products more effective when used at night as opposed to the day.

How long do the results last?

Results will last as long as you continue to use a glycolic regimen.

What results should I expect from a glycolic regimen?

You should see initial results within a week or two, such as improved texture and tone of the skin. Over a few months glycolic acid will help in clearing up acne, deep cleansing the pores, decreasing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and will also lighten hyperpigmentation (dark spots).

Will the use of a glycolic acid make me sun-sensitive?

Because glycolic acid is an exfoliant, you will be exposing new, fresh layers of skin to the sun that have not been previously exposed. The newer skin, much like a baby’s skin, will tend to be slightly more vulnerable to the sun. Use of a sunscreen is always recommended as part of a good preventative skincare regimen.