What is Glycolic Acid?

Glycolic acid is an extremely effective member of the “alpha hydroxy acid” family; a term used for several naturally occurring acids found in plants, fruits, milk, and wine that have been used for centuries as moisturizers and skin fresheners. Even the famed Cleopatra was known to have used lactic acid from sour milk to diminish lines and blemishes on her face.

Of course, with the advances in cosmetic science over the years, we have seen the development of far more sophisticated versions of AHAs. While Dermatologists and Plastic Surgeons have been performing chemical exfoliation for decades (typically with trichloroacetic acid, phenol, resorcinol, and salicylic acid), it was in 1989 that cosmetic manufacturers began mass marketing milder versions of “chemical peels” using AHAs for salon and at-home use. They quickly caught on and by 1992 were being sold all over the world.

The most popular of the AHA family, glycolic acid is derived from the sugar cane plant and acts as a keratolytic agent (removes the top layers of skin), thus speeding up the skin renewal process. It is the only AHA clinically proven to penetrate the cell walls due to its tiny molecular size. Inside the cell, it actually stimulates the collagen and elastin fibers in the dermis, thus improving the appearance of wrinkles, fine lines and other forms of sun damage. Glycolic acid loosens the glue-like substance that holds layers of dead skin cells together. Once these cells dissolve, smoother, softer skin is revealed.

Additionally, glycolic acid is one of the most effective substances to use in the treatment of white-heads, blackheads, pustules, hyper-pigmentation and even age-thickened skin. Typically, AHA products sold to consumers have an AHA concentration of 10 percent or less. The concentration used by trained cosmetologists may run between 20 and 30 percent, while those used by doctors can range from 50 to 70 percent.

Generally speaking, it is better to start with a lower strength glycolic product first (2.5% or 5%), and then gradually increase the percentage to avoid any potential irritation to the skin. Please see our “Product Types” page and FAQ for more detailed information on glycolic products and how they can improve your skin. It is advised to see your dermatologist whenever starting a new skin care program.